In discussing ties, my colleague Guy Trebay, our men’s wear critic, wisely advises against prematurely declaring the demise of any fashion item. He notes that even seemingly obsolete pieces of clothing have a tendency to resurface, a phenomenon particularly pronounced in men’s wear with its limited repertoire rooted in centuries-old customs.
Each generation rediscovers and recontextualizes previously dismissed garments, claiming them as its own buried treasures. From wide ties to bell bottoms, from corsets to waistcoats, and even spats, styles once considered outdated become ironically cool or funky, finding renewed appreciation.
However, there exists a distinction between a garment becoming a novelty and becoming a standard part of a wardrobe. The tie, once an integral aspect of daily attire akin to underwear, seems to be fading into the past. Factors such as the rise of casual Fridays, blurred lines between personal and professional lives, and the prevalence of remote work during the pandemic have contributed to its decline. The Men’s Dress Furnishings Association, representing American tie-makers, closed its doors in 2008.
Derek Guy, also known as dieworkwear, shared an insight from a high-end men’s clothing store owner who now considers tie displays as part of the shop’s decor. It raises questions about the tie’s future role in men’s wear, suggesting it might transition from a standard component to an optional accessory, symbolizing individuality and emphasizing formality on special occasions.
A notable example is the recent dress code controversy in the Senate. While there was a brief uproar over the possibility of relaxed attire, the final agreement was for men to wear jackets and ties in the chamber, emphasizing the seriousness of the occasion and turning the tie into a symbol of political ritual and tradition.
Predicting the tie’s fate in terms of popularity becomes challenging, as trends in fashion tend to fluctuate. Alexandra Van Houtte of Tagwalk observed a 3 percent increase in tie appearances in the spring 2024 men’s shows compared to the previous year. Sales data from high-end tie purveyors like Hermès and Charvet also indicates double-digit percentage upticks over the past year.
In essence, the tie may endure, but perhaps in reduced quantities. Guy anticipates a potential future where ties become akin to women’s wedding dresses—reserved for special events, steeped in tradition and historical significance, but no longer a daily necessity.
